Surfing at La Barqueta


This morning I woke up and went to the beach with Dina, secretary from school, and our bus driver. The weather was nice and we had the beach to ourselves. The waves were killer and I was a slightly nervous going out by myself. But the whole reason I wanted to come to Panama, other than renewing my visa, was to surf. So this year I have surfed in El Salvador, Costa Rica, and Panama. I walked out and the current was super strong and that made me nervous but I braved it and finally was able to paddle out without getting beat down by the waves. I started catching some waves but I did not want to go out where the huge waves were breaking because I know my surfing limit and plus, I was alone. However, before I knew it I had been carried out beyond the huge crashing waves. The only way for me to get in to shore was to ride those huge waves. I was out for about an hour and riding wave after wave. They were massive and because of that all you had to do was stand up and ride and ride and ride. As I was waiting for one I looked back and the approaching wave was 6 or 7 feet. I cannot even begin to describe the panic that went through my head. In a matter of seconds I was preparing myself to ride it because if not I was going to get rocked. So as it came I popped up and rode that thing forever. I remember thinking "Oh my gosh I caught it......Oh my gosh I am still riding it." It was so awsome. But after that long ride I was still nowhere close to the shore and I was starting to tire. So I just kept catching waves and riding them as far as I could. I am not going to lie, I was scared to death most of my time out there but I didn't have time to think about it. It was the coolest thing ever.

Comments

Kathy said…
Cute pic!!!

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